:root{--space-3xs:.25rem;--space-2xs:.5rem;--space-xs:.75rem;--space-s:1rem;--space-m:1.5rem;--space-l:2rem;--space-xl:clamp(2.75rem, 2rem + 2.5vw, 4rem);--space-2xl:clamp(4rem, 2.5rem + 6vw, 8rem);--space-3xl:clamp(5rem, 3rem + 8vw, 10rem);--gutter:clamp(1.25rem, 5vw, 4rem);--measure:42rem;--page:78rem;--text-xs:.78rem;--text-s:.9rem;--text-m:1.125rem;--text-l:clamp(1.25rem, 1.12rem + .55vw, 1.5rem);--text-xl:clamp(1.6rem, 1.3rem + 1.2vw, 2.4rem);--text-2xl:clamp(2.1rem, 1.5rem + 2.6vw, 3.6rem);--text-display:clamp(3.4rem, 1.4rem + 8vw, 9rem);--ease-out:cubic-bezier(.16, 1, .3, 1);--ease-in:cubic-bezier(.7, 0, .84, 0);--ease-in-out:cubic-bezier(.65, 0, .35, 1);--dur-fast:.12s;--dur:.22s;--dur-slow:.42s;--radius-s:calc(var(--radius) * .5);--radius-pill:999px;--shadow:0 1px 2px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 10%, transparent), 0 12px 32px -12px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 28%, transparent);--scrim-cover:linear-gradient(0deg, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 82%, transparent) 0%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 38%, transparent) 38%, transparent 62%), radial-gradient(120% 90% at 0% 100%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 45%, transparent), transparent 60%);--scrim:linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 35%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 55%, transparent) 65%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 88%, transparent))}*,:before,:after{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:var(--space-m);scrollbar-color:var(--color-hair) var(--color-paper);overflow-x:clip}body{background:var(--color-paper);color:var(--color-ink);caret-color:var(--color-ink);font:400 var(--text-m)/1.65 var(--font-body);font-optical-sizing:auto;text-rendering:optimizelegibility;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;margin:0;overflow-x:clip}::selection{background:var(--color-tint);color:var(--color-tint-ink)}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:var(--display-weight);letter-spacing:var(--display-tracking);text-wrap:balance;overflow-wrap:anywhere;min-width:0;margin:0;line-height:1.1}h3{font-size:var(--text-l);line-height:1.25}p{margin:0}a{color:var(--color-link);text-underline-offset:.22em;text-decoration-thickness:1px}:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--color-ink);outline-offset:3px}.num{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums lining-nums}.sr{clip-path:inset(50%);white-space:nowrap;width:1px;height:1px;position:absolute;overflow:hidden}.wrap{width:100%;max-width:calc(var(--page) + 2 * var(--gutter));padding-inline:var(--gutter);margin-inline:auto}.skip{left:var(--space-s);z-index:50;padding:var(--space-xs) var(--space-s);background:var(--color-ink);color:var(--color-paper);position:absolute;top:-4rem}.skip:focus{top:var(--space-s)}.tour-meta,.score-t,.byline,.bestfor-label,.trip-facts dt,.trip-note,.day-when,.toc-head,.prose th,.foot-head,.tour-price span,.fold-kicker{font-family:var(--font-label);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:500;line-height:1.4}.credit,.fold figcaption,.todo figcaption,.day-credit,.pull figcaption{font:400 .6875rem/1.3 var(--font-label);letter-spacing:.03em}.btn{white-space:nowrap;min-height:2.875rem;font:500 .95rem/1 var(--font-label);letter-spacing:.01em;transition:background-color var(--dur) var(--ease-out);border-radius:2px;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:.55em;padding:0 1.35rem;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.btn svg{transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out);flex:none}.btn-buy{background:var(--color-accent);color:var(--color-accent-ink)}.btn-buy:hover{background:var(--color-accent-hover)}.btn-buy:hover svg{transform:translate(2px,-2px)}.btn-buy:focus-visible{outline-color:var(--color-accent)}.mast{border-bottom:3px double var(--color-hair)}.mast-line{justify-content:space-between;gap:var(--space-s);padding-block:var(--space-2xs);border-bottom:1px solid var(--color-hair);font:500 var(--text-xs)/1.4 var(--font-label);color:var(--color-muted);letter-spacing:.04em;flex-wrap:wrap;display:flex}.mast-brand{width:fit-content;min-height:2.75rem;margin:var(--space-s) auto var(--space-3xs);font:560 clamp(1.6rem, 1.2rem + 1.6vw, 2.4rem)/1.1 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.02em;color:var(--color-ink);text-align:center;align-items:center;text-decoration:none;display:flex}.mast-brand em,.foot-brand em{letter-spacing:-.015em;font-style:italic;font-weight:340}.mast-nav{justify-content:center;column-gap:var(--space-m);flex-wrap:wrap;display:flex}.mast-nav a{white-space:nowrap;min-height:2.75rem;font:500 var(--text-s)/1 var(--font-label);color:var(--color-muted);text-underline-offset:.28em;align-items:center;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.mast-nav a:hover{color:var(--color-ink)}.mast-nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--color-ink);text-decoration-line:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--color-ink)}.fold{background:var(--color-deep);isolation:isolate;height:clamp(18rem,56svh,36rem);margin:0;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.fold-home{height:clamp(32rem,86svh,54rem)}.fold img{object-fit:cover;z-index:-2;width:100%;height:100%;animation:settle 2.6s var(--ease-out) both;position:absolute;inset:0}.fold:after{content:"";z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(0deg, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 62%, transparent) 0%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 20%, transparent) 38%, transparent 60%), radial-gradient(90% 70% at 0% 100%, color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 38%, transparent), transparent 70%);position:absolute;inset:0}.fold-title{justify-items:start;gap:var(--space-m);margin-inline:auto;padding-bottom:clamp(2.5rem,7svh,5rem);display:grid;position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0}.fold-lapped .fold-title{padding-bottom:calc(2.5rem + clamp(2rem,6svh,4rem))}.fold-kicker{color:oklch(96% .006 85);align-items:center;gap:.9rem;display:flex}.fold-kicker:before{content:"";opacity:.8;background:currentColor;width:2.5rem;height:1px}.fold-dek{margin-top:calc(-1 * var(--space-2xs));max-width:40ch;font:italic var(--w-light) clamp(1.1rem, .95rem + .6vw, 1.5rem)/1.35 var(--font-display);color:oklch(96% .006 85);text-shadow:0 1px 18px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 45%, transparent)}.fold h1{color:oklch(98.5% .005 85);max-width:11ch;font-size:clamp(3.25rem,1rem + 7.4vw,7rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);letter-spacing:-.03em;text-shadow:0 1px 24px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 30%, transparent);animation:rise 1.4s var(--ease-out) both;line-height:.95}.fold:not(.fold-home) h1{max-width:16ch;font-size:clamp(2.5rem,1.4rem + 4.4vw,5rem);line-height:1}.fold figcaption{right:var(--space-s);bottom:var(--space-2xs);max-width:calc(100% - 2 * var(--space-s));color:oklch(90% .008 85);text-align:right;position:absolute}.fold-lapped figcaption{bottom:calc(2.5rem + var(--space-2xs))}@keyframes settle{0%{transform:scale(1.06)}}@keyframes rise{0%{opacity:.4;transform:translateY(.18em)}}.plain-h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,1.5rem + 3vw,4rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);margin-block:var(--space-xl) var(--space-m)}.trip{z-index:2;position:relative}.trip-lap{margin-top:-2.5rem}.trip-card{gap:var(--space-m);padding:var(--space-m) clamp(1rem, 3vw, 2rem);background:var(--color-panel);border:1px solid var(--color-hair);border-top:3px solid var(--color-accent);box-shadow:0 1px 2px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 8%, transparent), 0 10px 30px -18px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 35%, transparent);border-radius:3px;display:grid}.trip-facts{gap:var(--space-s) var(--space-m);grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));margin:0;display:grid}.trip-facts>div{align-content:start;gap:.3rem;min-width:0;display:grid}.trip-facts dt{color:var(--color-muted)}.trip-facts dd{font:var(--w-light) 1.0625rem/1.3 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-ink);text-wrap:balance;overflow-wrap:break-word;margin:0}.trip-cta{justify-items:center;gap:.45rem;display:grid}.trip-cta .btn{width:100%}.trip-note{color:var(--color-muted);letter-spacing:.1em}@media (width>=64rem){.trip-card{--trip-gap:clamp(2rem, 3vw, 3rem);grid-template-columns:repeat(var(--cols,5), minmax(0, 1fr));column-gap:var(--trip-gap);padding:var(--space-m) var(--space-l);align-items:center}.trip-facts{grid-column:1 / span var(--fcols,4);grid-template-columns:subgrid;align-self:stretch;gap:normal}.trip-facts>div,.trip-cta{position:relative}.trip-facts>div+div:before,.trip-cta:before{content:"";inset-block:0;left:calc(var(--trip-gap) / -2);background:var(--color-hair);width:1px;position:absolute}.trip-cta:before{inset-block:calc(-1 * var(--space-m) + .75rem)}.trip-facts dd{font-size:clamp(1.0625rem,.9rem + .25vw,1.15rem)}.trip-cta{align-content:center;align-self:stretch}.trip-cta .btn{padding-inline:1rem}.trip-note{white-space:nowrap;letter-spacing:.08em}}.lede{justify-items:center;gap:var(--space-l);padding-block:calc(var(--space-xl) + var(--space-s)) var(--space-xl);text-align:center;display:grid}.intro{max-width:40ch;font:var(--w-light) clamp(1.3rem, 1.02rem + 1.05vw, 1.9rem)/1.48 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.008em;color:var(--color-ink);text-wrap:pretty}.intro:first-line{font-style:italic}.bestfor{justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:var(--space-2xs) var(--space-s);flex-wrap:wrap;display:flex}.bestfor-label{color:var(--color-muted)}.bestfor ul{justify-content:center;gap:var(--space-2xs);flex-wrap:wrap;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:flex}.bestfor li{border-radius:var(--radius-pill);border:1px solid var(--color-hair);font:400 .875rem/1.3 var(--font-label);color:var(--color-ink);background:0 0;padding:.3rem .8rem}.byline{color:var(--color-muted);text-align:left;align-items:center;gap:.7rem;display:flex}.byline-mark{background:var(--color-deep);width:2.25rem;height:2.25rem;color:var(--color-deep-ink);letter-spacing:.06em;border-radius:50%;flex:none;place-items:center;font-size:.68rem;display:grid}.byline a{color:var(--color-ink);text-decoration-color:var(--color-hair);padding-block:.9rem}.byline>span:last-child{padding-block:.15rem}.byline .sep{margin-left:.6em;margin-right:.15em}.faq-by-text,.byline-when{white-space:nowrap}.opener:not(.opener-home) .lede{padding-block:var(--space-xl)}.sec-title{font-size:clamp(2rem,1.35rem + 2.3vw,3.4rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);letter-spacing:-.02em;line-height:1.08}.sec-head{justify-items:center;gap:var(--space-s);max-width:44rem;margin:0 auto var(--space-xl);text-align:center;display:grid}.sec-dek{max-width:50ch;font:italic var(--w-light) clamp(1.05rem, .98rem + .3vw, 1.25rem)/1.5 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-muted);text-wrap:pretty}.picks{background:var(--color-panel);padding-block:var(--space-xl)}.picks+.guide,.picks+.guide-head{padding-top:var(--space-xl)}.picks-head,.lead-head{gap:var(--space-xs);max-width:44rem;margin-bottom:var(--space-xl);display:grid}.tour{flex-direction:column;width:100%;display:flex;position:relative}.tour-media{background:var(--color-hair);overflow:hidden}.tour-media img{aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;width:100%;transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease-out)}.tour:hover .tour-media img{transform:scale(1.03)}.tour-body{gap:var(--space-xs);padding-top:var(--space-m);flex-direction:column;flex:1;display:flex}.tour-meta{color:var(--color-muted);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;display:flex}.tour-meta>span:not(:first-child):before{content:"";vertical-align:.3em;background:var(--color-hair);width:1rem;height:1px;margin-inline:.7rem;display:inline-block}.tour-meta svg{vertical-align:-.02em;color:var(--color-ink);margin-right:.4em;display:inline-block}.tour h3{font-size:clamp(1.35rem,1.2rem + .5vw,1.65rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);max-width:24ch;line-height:1.18}.tour-blurb{color:var(--color-muted);max-width:46ch;font-size:.975rem;line-height:1.6}.tour-foot{padding-top:var(--space-m);justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:var(--space-xs) var(--space-s);flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:auto;display:flex}.tour-price{font:var(--w-light) 1.6rem/1 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-ink);white-space:nowrap}.facts-note,.map-credit{margin-top:var(--space-2xs);font-size:var(--text-xs);color:var(--color-muted)}.tour-price span{color:var(--color-muted);vertical-align:.25em;margin-right:.4em}.tour-lead{gap:var(--space-l);display:grid}.tour-lead .tour-media img{aspect-ratio:4/3}.tour-lead+.tour-lead{margin-top:var(--space-2xl)}.tour-lead .tour-body{justify-content:center;gap:var(--space-s);padding-top:0}.tour-lead .tour-meta{color:var(--color-ink)}.tour-lead h3{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,1.35rem + 1.9vw,3rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);letter-spacing:-.02em;max-width:15ch;line-height:1.06}.score{align-items:center;gap:var(--space-s);margin-block:var(--space-2xs);display:flex}.score-n{font:var(--w-light) clamp(4.5rem, 2.8rem + 5.2vw, 7.5rem)/.8 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.05em;color:var(--color-link)}.score-t{color:var(--color-muted);gap:.25rem;display:grid}.tour-lead .tour-blurb{color:var(--color-ink);font-size:1.05rem}.tour-lead .tour-foot{margin-top:var(--space-xs);padding-top:var(--space-m);border-top:1px solid var(--color-hair)}.tour-lead .tour-price{font-size:2rem}@media (width>=56rem){.tour-lead{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.3fr) minmax(0,1fr);align-items:center;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,5rem)}.tour-lead .tour-foot{max-width:30rem}.tour-lead+.tour-lead{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.3fr)}.tour-lead+.tour-lead .tour-media{order:2}}.tours{margin:var(--space-2xl) 0 0;gap:var(--space-xl) clamp(2rem, 4.2vw, 3.75rem);padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.tour-card .tour-foot{justify-content:flex-start;gap:var(--space-xs) var(--space-m);padding-top:var(--space-s)}.tour-card .tour-price{font-size:1.45rem}.tour-card .btn{gap:.45em;min-height:2.75rem;padding-inline:1rem;font-size:.9rem}.tours>li{display:flex}@media (width<=47.99rem){.tours:not(.n1){gap:var(--space-m);overscroll-behavior-x:contain;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;margin-inline:calc(-1 * var(--gutter));padding:0 var(--gutter) var(--space-s);scroll-padding-inline:var(--gutter);scrollbar-width:thin;grid-auto-columns:82%;grid-auto-flow:column;overflow-x:auto}.tours>li{scroll-snap-align:start}.tour-lead .tour-foot .btn{flex:1}}@media (width>=48rem){.tours{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.tours.n1{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.tours.n1 .tour{gap:var(--space-xl);grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);align-items:center;display:grid}.tours.n1 .tour-body{padding-top:0}}@media (width>=64rem){.tours.n3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}}@media (width>=48rem){.tours:not(.n1){row-gap:0}.tours:not(.n1)>li,.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card{grid-row:span 5;grid-template-rows:subgrid;row-gap:0;display:grid}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card .tour-body{display:contents}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card>*{min-width:0}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-media{grid-row:1}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card .tour-meta{padding-top:var(--space-m);grid-row:2}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card h3{padding-top:var(--space-xs);grid-row:3}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card .tour-blurb{padding-top:var(--space-xs);grid-row:4}.tours:not(.n1) .tour-card .tour-foot{grid-row:5;align-self:end;margin-top:0}.tours.n2>li:nth-child(n+3),.tours.n4>li:nth-child(n+3),.tours.n3>li:nth-child(n+3),.tours.n5>li:nth-child(n+3){padding-top:var(--space-xl)}}@media (width>=64rem){.tours.n3>li:nth-child(n+3){padding-top:0}}@media (width>=48rem){.tours.n5>li:last-child{grid-area:auto/1/auto/-1;display:block}.tours.n5>li:last-child .tour-card{gap:var(--space-xl);grid-row:auto;grid-template-rows:none;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);align-items:center;display:grid}.tours.n5>li:last-child .tour-card .tour-body{display:block}.tours.n5>li:last-child .tour-card .tour-body>*{grid-row:auto}}@media (width>=48rem) and (width<=63.99rem){.tours.n3>li:last-child{grid-area:auto/1/auto/-1;display:block}.tours.n3>li:last-child .tour-card{gap:var(--space-xl);grid-row:auto;grid-template-rows:none;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);align-items:center;display:grid}.tours.n3>li:last-child .tour-card .tour-body{display:block}.tours.n3>li:last-child .tour-card .tour-body>*{grid-row:auto}}.todo{padding-block:var(--space-3xl) var(--space-2xl)}.todo-grid{gap:var(--space-xl) var(--space-m);grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.todo-item{gap:var(--space-s);flex-direction:column;min-width:0;display:flex}.todo-big{grid-column:1/-1}.todo figure{gap:.35rem;margin:0;display:grid}.ph{background:var(--color-hair);display:block;overflow:hidden}.ph img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.todo figcaption{color:var(--color-muted);text-align:right;justify-self:end}.todo-text{align-items:start;gap:var(--space-xs);grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);display:grid}.todo-n{font:var(--w-light) clamp(2.4rem, 1.9rem + 1.6vw, 3.4rem)/.8 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.04em;color:var(--color-link)}.todo-copy{gap:.2rem;display:grid}.todo h3{letter-spacing:-.005em;text-wrap:pretty;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,.98rem + .3vw,1.25rem);font-weight:400;line-height:1.35}.todo-copy p{font:italic var(--w-light) clamp(1.05rem, .98rem + .3vw, 1.25rem)/1.35 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-muted);text-wrap:pretty;max-width:34ch}.todo h3 a{color:inherit;text-decoration-color:var(--color-hair)}@media (width<=47.99rem){.todo-item:not(.todo-big) .todo-text{gap:var(--space-2xs);grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}}.todo-big .todo-n{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,2.2rem + 3.2vw,5.5rem)}.todo-big h3,.todo-big .todo-copy p{max-width:30ch;font-size:clamp(1.3rem,1.1rem + .7vw,1.75rem)}.todo-big h3{font-weight:var(--w-light)}@media (width>=64rem){.todo-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.25fr) repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));grid-auto-flow:dense;column-gap:var(--space-l)}.todo-big{grid-area:span 2/1}.todo-grid:not(:has(>li:nth-child(4))) .todo-big{grid-row:span 1}.todo-grid:has(>li:nth-child(6)) .todo-big{grid-row:span 3}.todo-grid.solo{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.todo-grid:has(>li:nth-child(4)):not(:has(>li:nth-child(5)))>li:nth-child(4){grid-column:span 2}.todo-grid:has(>li:nth-child(4)):not(:has(>li:nth-child(5)))>li:nth-child(4) .ph img{aspect-ratio:16/5}.todo-big figure{flex:1;grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr) auto}.todo-big .ph{min-height:22rem;position:relative}.todo-big .ph img{aspect-ratio:auto;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.todo-item:not(.todo-big) .ph img{aspect-ratio:3/2}}.more{margin-top:var(--space-xl)}.more-link{min-height:2.75rem;font:500 .95rem/1 var(--font-label);color:var(--color-ink);align-items:center;gap:.6rem;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.more-link svg{transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out)}.more-link:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--color-hair);text-underline-offset:.4em}.more-link:hover svg{transform:translate(4px)}.pull{isolation:isolate;background:var(--color-deep);color:var(--color-deep-ink);padding-block:var(--space-3xl);margin:0;position:relative}.pull-photo{min-height:clamp(28rem,78svh,44rem);padding-block:var(--space-2xl) var(--space-xl);align-items:flex-end;display:flex}.pull-photo img{object-fit:cover;z-index:-2;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.pull-photo:after{content:"";z-index:-1;background:var(--scrim-cover);position:absolute;inset:0}.pull-text{margin-inline:auto}.pull blockquote,.prose .pull blockquote{font:inherit;border:0;margin:0;padding:0}.pull blockquote p{max-width:17ch;font:var(--w-light) clamp(2.3rem, 1.1rem + 4.6vw, 5.4rem)/1.02 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.035em;text-wrap:balance;text-shadow:0 1px 28px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 35%, transparent)}.pull figcaption{right:var(--space-s);bottom:var(--space-2xs);max-width:calc(100% - 2 * var(--space-s));color:oklch(90% .008 85);text-align:right;position:absolute}.prose>.pull{width:100vw;margin:var(--space-2xl) calc(50% - 50vw)}.prose>.pull+*{margin-top:0}.guide{padding-block:var(--space-m) var(--space-2xl)}.guide:has(+.hub){padding-bottom:var(--space-xl)}.guide-head{padding-block:var(--space-2xl) 0}.guide-head .prose>.pull:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>h2:first-child{letter-spacing:-.02em;max-width:14ch;font-size:clamp(2rem,1.35rem + 2.3vw,3.4rem);line-height:1.08}.guide-head .prose>h2:first-child+p{font-size:1.1875rem;line-height:1.7}.guide-head .prose>h2:first-child+p:first-letter{float:left;font:var(--w-light) 4.1em/.82 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-ink);margin:.1em .12em 0 -.02em}@media (width>=64rem){.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose{padding-top:var(--space-l);border-top:1px solid var(--color-hair);column-gap:var(--space-2xl);max-width:var(--page);grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr);display:grid}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>*{grid-column:2;margin-top:0}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>*+*{margin-top:var(--space-m)}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>h2:first-child{grid-area:1/1/span 4;align-self:start;padding-top:.15em}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>h2:first-child+*{margin-top:0}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>h2:first-child+p{max-width:36rem;font-size:1.25rem}.guide-head:not(.has-toc) .prose>.pull{margin-top:var(--space-2xl);grid-area:auto/1/auto/-1}}.guide-tail{padding-top:0}.guide:not(.has-toc) .prose{margin-inline:auto}@media (width>=64rem){.guide.has-toc{grid-template-columns:13rem minmax(0, var(--measure));justify-content:center;gap:var(--space-2xl);display:grid}.toc{top:var(--space-l);align-self:start;position:sticky}}.toc{margin-bottom:var(--space-l)}.toc-head{color:var(--color-muted);margin-bottom:var(--space-2xs)}.toc ol{font:400 var(--text-s)/1.4 var(--font-label);margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.toc a{min-height:2.75rem;color:var(--color-ink);align-items:center;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.toc a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.prose{max-width:40rem}.prose>*+*{margin-top:var(--space-m)}.prose p,.prose li{font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.75}.prose h2{font-size:clamp(1.75rem,1.35rem + 1.3vw,2.5rem);font-weight:var(--w-light);letter-spacing:-.018em;margin-top:var(--space-xl)}.prose>h2:first-child{margin-top:0}.prose h2+*{margin-top:var(--space-s)}.prose h3{margin-top:var(--space-l);font-weight:400}.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-left:1.25rem}.prose li+li{margin-top:var(--space-2xs)}.prose li::marker{color:var(--color-muted)}.prose strong{font-weight:600}.prose em{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.06em;font-style:italic}.prose table{border-collapse:separate;border-spacing:0 .375rem;width:100%;margin-block:var(--space-m);font:400 1.0625rem/1.5 var(--font-body)}.prose th,.prose td{padding:var(--space-xs) var(--space-s);text-align:left;vertical-align:middle}.prose th{color:var(--color-muted);padding-block:0 var(--space-3xs)}.prose td{background:var(--color-panel)}.prose tbody tr:nth-child(2n) td{background:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-panel) 45%, var(--color-paper))}.prose td{font:400 1.0625rem/1.5 var(--font-body);color:var(--color-ink)}.prose td:first-child{white-space:nowrap;border-radius:4px 0 0 4px;font-weight:600}.prose td:last-child{border-radius:0 4px 4px 0}@media (width<=30rem){.prose th,.prose td{padding-inline:var(--space-2xs)}.prose td:first-child{white-space:normal}}@media (width<=40rem){.prose>table{overscroll-behavior-x:contain;font-size:.9375rem;display:block;overflow-x:auto}.prose>table td{font-size:.9375rem}}.facts{margin-block:var(--space-m);margin-inline:0}.facts-scroll{overflow-x:auto}.facts-scroll:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--color-link)}.facts table{min-width:min(calc(var(--cols) * 7.5rem), 100%);margin:0;font-size:1rem}.facts caption{text-align:left;font:600 1.0625rem/1.35 var(--font-body);color:var(--color-ink);padding-bottom:var(--space-2xs);text-wrap:balance}.facts thead th{white-space:normal;text-wrap:balance;vertical-align:bottom}.facts td,.facts tbody th{vertical-align:middle;font:400 1rem/1.45 var(--font-body);padding-block:var(--space-2xs)}.facts tbody th{background:var(--color-panel);color:var(--color-ink);letter-spacing:normal;text-transform:none;border-radius:4px 0 0 4px;min-width:8rem;font-weight:600}.facts tbody tr:nth-child(2n) th{background:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-panel) 45%, var(--color-paper))}.facts td:first-child{white-space:normal;border-radius:0;font-weight:400}.facts-ref{color:var(--color-muted);margin-left:.15em;font-weight:400}.facts-line{display:block}.facts-note{line-height:1.5}@media (width<=40rem){.facts-scroll{overflow:visible}.facts table,.facts tbody,.facts tr,.facts td,.facts tbody th,.facts caption{width:auto;min-width:0;display:block}.facts table{border-spacing:0}.facts thead{clip-path:inset(50%);width:1px;height:1px;position:absolute;overflow:hidden}.facts tbody tr{margin-bottom:var(--space-2xs);background:var(--color-panel);border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden}.facts tbody tr:nth-child(2n){background:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-panel) 45%, var(--color-paper))}.facts tbody th,.facts tbody tr:nth-child(2n) th,.facts td,.prose .facts tbody tr:nth-child(2n) td{background:0 0;border-radius:0}.facts tbody th{padding:var(--space-xs) var(--space-s) var(--space-3xs)}.facts td{gap:var(--space-xs);padding:var(--space-3xs) var(--space-s);grid-template-columns:minmax(5.5rem,34%) 1fr;display:grid}.facts td:last-child{padding-bottom:var(--space-xs)}.facts td:before{content:attr(data-label);font:500 .72rem/1.9 var(--font-label);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--color-muted)}}.map{margin-block:var(--space-l);margin-inline:0}.island-map{border-radius:6px;width:100%;height:auto;max-height:min(36rem,75svh);display:block}@media (width>=48rem){.map-tall{gap:var(--space-l);grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.1fr) minmax(0,1fr);align-items:start;display:grid}.map-tall .island-map{max-height:min(44rem,85svh)}.map-tall .map-places{columns:1;margin-top:0}}.map-sea{fill:var(--color-tint)}.map-land{fill:var(--color-paper);stroke:var(--color-hair);stroke-width:1.5px}.map-near{fill:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-paper) 70%, var(--color-tint))}.map-beach{fill:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-accent) 14%, var(--color-paper))}.map-minor,.map-main,.map-bar path{fill:none;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.map-minor{stroke:var(--color-hair);stroke-width:1.2px}.map-main{stroke:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-muted) 55%, var(--color-paper));stroke-width:2.2px}.map-harbour{fill:var(--color-deep)}.map-ground{fill:var(--color-paper)}.map-water{fill:var(--color-tint);fill-rule:evenodd}.map-river,.map-stream,.map-trail,.map-rail,.map-border,.map-outline{fill:none;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.map-river{stroke:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 35%, var(--color-tint));stroke-width:2px}.map-stream{stroke:var(--color-tint);stroke-width:1.2px}.map-trail{stroke:var(--color-accent);stroke-width:1.6px;stroke-dasharray:5 4}.map-rail{stroke:var(--color-muted);stroke-width:1.2px;stroke-dasharray:1 3;stroke-linecap:square}.map-border{stroke:var(--color-muted);stroke-width:1.3px;stroke-dasharray:9 4 2 4}.map-outline{fill:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-accent) 5%, transparent);stroke:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-accent) 55%, var(--color-paper));stroke-width:1.5px;stroke-dasharray:2 5}.map-peak path{fill:var(--color-muted)}.island-map .map-peak text{font:italic 400 13px var(--font-display);fill:var(--color-muted);text-anchor:middle}.map-pin .map-dot{fill:var(--color-accent);stroke:var(--color-paper);stroke-width:2px}.map-pin .map-approx{fill:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-accent) 8%, transparent);stroke:var(--color-accent);stroke-width:1.5px;stroke-dasharray:4 4}.island-map text{font:600 15px var(--font-body);fill:var(--color-ink);paint-order:stroke;stroke:var(--color-paper);stroke-width:4px;stroke-linejoin:round}.island-map .map-num{fill:var(--color-accent-ink);stroke:none;text-anchor:middle;font-size:13px}.island-map .map-island-name{font:italic 400 17px var(--font-display);fill:var(--color-muted);text-anchor:middle;dominant-baseline:central;stroke:none;letter-spacing:.02em}.map-bar path{stroke:var(--color-ink);stroke-width:2px}.island-map .map-bar text{font-size:12px;font-weight:400}@media (width<=40rem){.island-map .map-label{display:none}.map-pin .map-dot{r:17px}.map-pin .map-approx{r:30px}.island-map .map-num{font-size:22px}.island-map .map-island-name{font-size:30px}.island-map .map-peak text{display:none}.island-map .map-bar text{font-size:24px}.map-bar path{stroke-width:3px}}.map-places{margin:var(--space-s) 0 0;font-size:var(--text-xs);padding-left:1.2em;line-height:1.45}.map-places li+li{margin-top:.3em}@media (width>=40rem){.map-places{columns:2;column-gap:var(--space-l)}.map-places li{break-inside:avoid}}.map-src{color:var(--color-muted)}.itour{gap:var(--space-2xs) var(--space-s);padding:var(--space-xs);background:var(--color-panel);border-radius:4px;grid-template-columns:4rem minmax(0,1fr);align-items:center;display:grid}.prose>.itour{margin-block:var(--space-m)}.itour-img{object-fit:cover;border-radius:2px;width:4rem;height:4rem}.itour-body{gap:.15rem;min-width:0;display:grid}.prose .itour-title{font:400 1.0625rem/1.4 var(--font-body);color:var(--color-ink)}.itour-body{overflow:hidden}.prose .itour-meta{font:500 .72rem/1.4 var(--font-label);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--color-muted);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;margin-left:-1.4em;display:flex}.itour-meta>span:before{content:"·";text-align:center;width:1.4em;display:inline-block}.itour-meta svg{vertical-align:-.02em;color:var(--color-ink);margin-right:.4em;display:inline-block}.itour-price strong{color:var(--color-ink);font-weight:600}.itour .btn{grid-column:1/-1;min-height:2.75rem;padding-inline:1rem;font-size:.9rem}@media (width>=40rem){.itour{padding-right:var(--space-s);grid-template-columns:4rem minmax(0,1fr) auto}.itour .btn{grid-column:auto}}.prose blockquote{padding-left:var(--space-m);border-left:1px solid var(--color-hair);font:italic var(--w-light) var(--text-l)/1.45 var(--font-display);margin-inline:0}.day{background:var(--color-tint);color:var(--color-tint-ink);padding-block:var(--space-2xl)}.day .sec-head{margin-bottom:var(--space-xl)}.day .sec-dek{color:var(--color-tint-ink)}.day-line{--day-gap:var(--space-m);column-gap:var(--day-gap);margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.day-line>li{align-content:start;gap:var(--space-2xs);padding-top:var(--space-l);display:grid;position:relative}.day-line>li:before{content:"";top:0;left:0;right:calc(-1 * var(--day-gap));background:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-tint-ink) 35%, transparent);height:1px;position:absolute}.day-line>li:last-child:before{right:0}.day-dot{background:var(--color-tint-ink);width:1.75rem;height:1.75rem;color:var(--color-tint);font:600 .78rem/1 var(--font-label);border-radius:50%;place-items:center;display:grid;position:absolute;top:0;left:0;translate:0 -50%}.day-link{gap:var(--space-s);color:var(--color-tint-ink);text-decoration:none;display:grid}.day-when{color:var(--color-tint-ink)}.day-photo{display:block;overflow:hidden}.day-photo img{aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover;width:100%;transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease-out)}.day-link:hover img{transform:scale(1.035)}.day-cap{font:italic var(--w-light) clamp(1.2rem, 1.08rem + .4vw, 1.45rem)/1.25 var(--font-display);text-wrap:balance}.day-cap svg{vertical-align:-.1em;transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out);margin-left:.4em;display:inline-block}a.day-link{border-radius:2px}a.day-link:hover .day-cap{text-underline-offset:.2em;text-decoration:underline 1px}a.day-link:hover .day-cap svg{transform:translate(3px)}a.day-link[target]:hover .day-cap svg{transform:translate(2px,-2px)}a.day-link:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--color-tint-ink);outline-offset:6px}.day-credit{color:var(--color-tint-ink)}.day-text{color:var(--color-tint-ink);opacity:.85;max-width:32ch;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.45}@media (width<=47.99rem){.day-line{overscroll-behavior-x:contain;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;margin-inline:calc(-1 * var(--gutter));padding:1rem var(--gutter) var(--space-s);scroll-padding-inline:var(--gutter);scrollbar-width:thin;grid-auto-columns:72%;grid-auto-flow:column;overflow-x:auto}.day-line>li{scroll-snap-align:start}}@media (width>=48rem){.day-line{row-gap:var(--space-2xl);grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));padding-top:1rem}}@media (width>=64rem){.day-line.n3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.day-line.n4{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr))}.day-line.n5,.day-line.n6{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.day-line{--day-gap:var(--space-l)}}.hub{padding-block:var(--space-xl);background:var(--color-panel);border-top:1px solid var(--color-hair);border-bottom:1px solid var(--color-hair)}.hub .lead-head{margin-bottom:var(--space-l)}.hub+.faq,.day+.faq,.todo+.faq,.picks+.faq{padding-top:var(--space-xl)}.hub-grid{gap:var(--space-l) var(--space-m);grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.hub-card{align-content:start;gap:var(--space-3xs);color:var(--color-ink);display:grid;position:relative}a.hub-title{color:var(--color-ink);text-decoration:none}a.hub-title:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0}.hub-card:has(a.hub-title:focus-visible){outline:2px solid var(--color-ink);outline-offset:4px}a.hub-title:focus-visible{outline:none}.hub-card img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%;margin-bottom:var(--space-2xs);transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease-out)}.hub-grid>li{overflow:hidden}.hub-title{font:var(--w-light) clamp(1.05rem, .98rem + .3vw, 1.25rem)/1.2 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.01em;text-wrap:balance}.hub-desc{font-size:var(--text-xs);color:var(--color-muted);-webkit-line-clamp:2;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;line-height:1.45;display:-webkit-box;overflow:hidden}.hub-card:hover .hub-title{text-underline-offset:.18em;text-decoration:underline 1px;text-decoration-color:var(--color-hair)}@media (width>=48rem){.hub-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.hub-grid.c2{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}@media (width>=64rem){.hub-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(10rem,1fr))}.hub-grid.c1{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,22rem)}}.faq{gap:var(--space-l);padding-block:var(--space-m) var(--space-2xl);display:grid}.faq-side{align-content:start;gap:var(--space-s);display:grid}.faq .sec-title{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,1.35rem + 1.7vw,2.8rem)}.faq-dek{font:italic var(--w-light) 1.125rem/1.45 var(--font-display);color:var(--color-muted)}.faq-by{margin-top:var(--space-3xs);text-transform:none;letter-spacing:.01em;white-space:nowrap;font-size:.85rem}.faq details{padding-block:var(--space-2xs)}.faq details+details{margin-top:var(--space-2xs)}.faq summary{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:var(--space-m);min-height:3.5rem;padding-block:var(--space-xs);cursor:pointer;font:var(--w-light) clamp(1.2rem, 1.05rem + .5vw, 1.375rem)/1.3 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.01em;list-style:none;display:flex}.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.faq summary:after{content:"";width:16px;height:16px;color:var(--color-accent);transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-out);background:linear-gradient(currentColor,currentColor) 50%/100% 1.25px no-repeat,linear-gradient(currentColor,currentColor) 50%/1.25px 100% no-repeat;flex:none}.faq details[open] summary:after{transform:rotate(45deg)}.faq summary:hover{text-underline-offset:.22em;text-decoration:underline 1px;text-decoration-color:var(--color-hair)}.faq details p{padding-bottom:var(--space-s);max-width:58ch;color:var(--color-muted)}@media (width>=56.25rem){.faq{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,2fr);align-items:start;gap:clamp(3rem,6vw,6rem)}.faq-side{top:var(--space-l);position:sticky}.faq-list{padding-top:var(--space-2xs)}}.related{padding-block:var(--space-l) var(--space-2xl)}.related .sec-title{margin-bottom:var(--space-l)}.related-list{gap:var(--space-l) var(--space-m);grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}@media (width>=48rem){.related-list.n3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.related-list.n4{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr))}}.related-list a{align-content:start;gap:var(--space-xs);color:var(--color-ink);font:var(--w-light) 1.1rem/1.3 var(--font-display);text-wrap:balance;text-decoration:none;display:grid}.related-list img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.related-list a:hover span{text-underline-offset:.2em;text-decoration:underline 1px}.credits{padding-bottom:var(--space-2xl)}.credits li+li{margin-top:var(--space-2xs)}.sources-dek{max-width:40rem;color:var(--color-muted);margin-bottom:var(--space-m)}.sources-meta{color:var(--color-muted);font-size:var(--text-s);display:block}.foot{background:var(--color-deep);color:var(--color-deep-ink);padding-block:var(--space-l) var(--space-s)}.foot :focus-visible{outline-color:var(--color-deep-ink)}.foot-brand{font:var(--w-light) clamp(1.9rem, 1.3rem + 2.4vw, 3.2rem)/1 var(--font-display);letter-spacing:-.03em;padding-bottom:var(--space-s);border-bottom:1px solid color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep-ink) 22%, transparent);text-wrap:balance}.foot-brand em{font-weight:var(--w-light)}.foot-blurb{max-width:46rem;padding-top:var(--space-s);font-size:var(--text-s);color:var(--color-deep-muted);text-wrap:pretty;line-height:1.5}.foot-grid{gap:var(--space-s) var(--space-2xl);padding-block:var(--space-s) 0;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,max-content));display:grid}@media (width>=48rem){.foot-col[aria-label=Guides] ul{columns:2;column-gap:var(--space-xl)}}.foot-head{color:var(--color-deep-muted);margin-bottom:var(--space-2xs)}.foot-col ul{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.foot-col a{min-height:2.25rem;color:var(--color-deep-ink);font-size:var(--text-s);align-items:center;padding-block:.2rem;line-height:1.35;text-decoration:none;display:inline-flex}.foot-col a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.foot-disclosure{max-width:46rem;padding-block:var(--space-2xs);color:var(--color-deep-muted);font-size:.75rem;line-height:1.5}.foot-disclosure a{color:var(--color-deep-ink);text-decoration-color:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep-ink) 40%, transparent);padding-block:.6rem;display:inline-block}.foot-base{padding-top:var(--space-2xs);font-size:var(--text-xs);color:var(--color-deep-muted)}.dock{display:none}@media (width<=47.99rem){.dock{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:var(--space-s);z-index:20;padding:var(--space-2xs) var(--gutter) calc(var(--space-2xs) + env(safe-area-inset-bottom));background:color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-paper) 96%, transparent);box-shadow:0 -8px 24px -16px color-mix(in oklch, var(--color-deep) 40%, transparent);transition:transform var(--dur) var(--ease-in);display:flex;position:fixed;inset:auto 0 0;transform:translateY(110%)}.dock[data-show]{transition-timing-function:var(--ease-out);transform:none}.dock-note{font:500 .8rem/1.3 var(--font-label);color:var(--color-muted)}.dock .btn{flex:1;max-width:13rem}}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*,:before,:after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}html{scroll-behavior:auto}}